The Chefs Who Have Buenos Aires (Reluctantly) Waiting in Line

If you’re planning to dine out in Buenos Aires, be prepared for an unfamiliar sight: lines. As the city springs back to life, the streets feel almost celebratory, an antidote to the lingering side effects of extended Covid lockdowns. Alfresco tables are packed. Locals who would never have queued up for dinner before the pandemic are now willing to wait for a taste of what a new generation of chefs is cooking up.

A big seller for vegans is a dish that riffs on humitas — a traditional northern Argentine corn pudding — that’s served as a creamy brûlée made with almond milk and topped with sautéed kimchi and daikon pickles (2,100 pesos). One of her personal favorites is the mussels ceviche prepared with a kimchi-based broth, crispy buckwheat granola, pomegranate seeds, toasted seaweed, sesame oil and cilantro (3,100 pesos). “It has a lot of layers,” Ms. Ra said.

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